Most recipes are a search for that just right bite. We fumble around seeking textures, flavors, and oftentimes memories in our kitchens. Then comes the a-ha moment, that blissful occasion where it all turns out just right, or at least just the way you want it. For me, nothing embodies that dance more than biscotti.
Twice-baked breads could be stored for long periods of time, which is why these cookies were favored by the Roman legions. Adding to their non-perishability is the fact that they contain no fat other than eggs. So it’s not a flaky or tender cookie, but a crunchy, dense treat meant to be enjoyed with a beverage–coffee in my case, but vin santo for many others. Still, balance is the name of the game. We’re looking for that sweet spot of crisp but not tooth-breaking, sweet but not cloying, and flavorful, but not overpowering. And in my case, an added element of memory too.
When I was a kid, we would go to Pittsburgh’s Strip District on Saturday or Sunday mornings. After the rest of our shopping was complete, my dad would often send me into Enrico’s biscotti for a “bag of ends.” These treasures were bags full of the ends of biscotti loaves, so you got to try the extra-crunchy versions of lots of different flavors. They were always a welcome treat in the car on the way home.
So when I make biscotti now, I do that search, that little dance. And like Goldilocks, I sometimes find one that’s juuuuuust right.
Cherry, Sesame, and Pecan Biscotti
- 1 cup brown sugar
- 3 eggs
- ½ tbsp. vanilla extract
- 2 ¾ cups all-purpose flour
- 1 tsp. baking powder
- ½ tsp. salt
- ½ tsp. cinnamon
- ¼ tsp. cardamom
- 2/3 cup dried tart cherries
- ½ cup chopped toasted pecans
- 1/3 cup sesame seeds
Preheat an oven to 325 degrees F and line a baking sheet with parchment paper.
Beat the eggs and sugar together until well-blended and thickened slightly, about 3 minutes on medium speed. Stir in the vanilla.
Stir in the flour, baking powder, salt, cinnamon, and cardamom just until the flour disappears.
Stir in the dried cherries, pecans, and sesame seeds just until distributed.
Gather the ball into a ball (flour your hands if needed) and let it rest for 5 minutes. At this point, I usually weigh it.
Divide the dough in half evenly and roll each half into an 11 in. log.
Press the logs flat until they are about 3-4 in. wide.
Brush with the egg wash.
Bake for 40 minutes, rotating the pan once for even done-ness. Cool the loaves on a wire rack for 5-10 minutes and reduce the oven temperature to 275 degrees F.
Cut the loaves into ½ in. slices and arrange them, standing up, on the baking sheet. They can be extremely close, but shouldn’t touch.
Bake for another 22-24 minutes and then cool completely on a wire rack.
The cherries become tender in the oven and their tartness is welcome up against the warm spices and rich, nutty pecans and sesame seeds. The cookie itself is crunchy but easy to break, and doesn’t require a beverage to soften it, though one is most certainly welcome. And the extra-crisp heels remind me of the delights found in those random bags of ends.
Truly, this is a balancing act worth the effort and a welcome addition to any holiday cookie exchange. I hope you give these twice-baked treasures a try!
Ciao for now,
Neen
Neen's Notes 
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