Archive | July, 2011

Toffee, and Tree Nuts, and Bacon (Oh my!)

21 Jul

News flash: It’s hot. And humid. In fact, if you’re reading this from just about anywhere in the US of A right now, you’re probably wishing that I hadn’t reminded you. For that, I apologize.

But this little heat/humidity wave brought along a confectionery conundrum for me. I love toffee. And ever since I bought Chocolates and Confections last winter I’ve been unable to find a store-bought version that matches up to homemade. (Now pralines, those are another story. I’ll have those shipped from New Orleans, because damn they know what they’re doing).

When it’s 100 degrees with 75% humidity, making candy can be a little bit tricky. But why not rise to the challenge? You have only deliciousness to gain! Fortunately, I’ve done the testing for you and this method should, nay, will work. Just take your time and remember: Enjoy cooking. It’s supposed to be fun.

Salted Pecan Toffee

adapted from Chocolates and Confections, by Peter F. Greweling

  • 8 oz. granulated sugar
  • 8 oz. (16 tbsp.) unsalted butter
  • 2 oz. (1/4 cup) water
  • 1/2 tsp. salt
  • 1 tbsp. vanilla extract or vanilla bean paste
  • 8 oz. dark chocolate, chopped
  • 8 oz. pecans, toasted for 10 minutes at 350 degrees, and chopped
  • Additional kosher or sea salt for finishing

Thoroughly butter a 9 x 13 in. pan.

In a 2-3 qt. saucepan, melt the butter over medium heat and then add the sugar, water, salt, and vanilla. Turn the heat to medium high and bring to a boil, stirring constantly with a heat-resistant spatula.

Insert a candy thermometer and continue cooking while stirring until the buttercrunch reaches 300 degrees and turns a light golden brown.

Pour into the prepared pan and spread quickly to the edges with a palette knife or offset spatula. Let cool until firm. It won’t take long—maybe 30-45 minutes.

Temper your chocolate. Don’t panic. It’s really easy as long as you take it slow. Place a bowl over a pot of simmering water and add 6 oz. of the dark chocolate. Stir often and allow it to melt completely, but do not exceed 120 degrees F. Remove the pot from the heat and add the remaining 2 oz. of chocolate. (This technique is called “seeding” and goes a long way in making the final, set chocolate shiny and non-greasy). Stir until melted, and then continue stirring until the chocolate cools to about 85-90 degrees F.

Wipe the top of the cooled toffee to remove any oil and then spread on the melted chocolate in an even layer with palette knife.

Sprinkle on the chopped nuts and some kosher salt and allow to cool completely to room temperature. Break into pieces and store in an airtight container. Normally this can be stored at room temperature, but during the summer months I keep it in the refrigerator in a tin lined with parchment paper. And no, you aren’t going crazy, the batch in this picture has toasted almonds on it. I didn’t get a pecan picture, sadly.


Can’t eat tree nuts? Try replacing the pecans with toasted sesame seeds or coconut. As the Kool-Aid man might say, “Oh yeah!” (Am I showing my age here? Oh dear…)

“But Neen,” I hear you saying, “I like toffee too, but how about something a little more…unique? Weren’t we promised bacon?”

I thought you’d never ask.

This is sweet-and-salty at its most glorious. All good things are in this toffee. Add a chocolate layer on top if you like your sweets sweet. Honestly? I think it’s perfect just the way it is.

Bacon-Walnut-Maple Toffee

  • 6 oz. granulated sugar
  • 2 oz. maple sugar (can be found in your grocery’s baking aisle or online via Amazon.)
  • 8 oz. (16 tbsp.) unsalted butter
  • 2 oz. (1/4 cup) water
  • 1/4 tsp. salt
  • 1 tbsp. vanilla extract or vanilla bean paste
  • 8 oz. walnuts
  • 3 slices thick cut bacon

Thoroughly butter a 9 x 13 in. pan.

In a wide pan, cook the bacon over medium heat, allowing the fat to render out slowly (this is important because you need it). When the bacon is crisp, remove it from the pan and drain on paper towels.

Place the walnuts in the pan with the rendered bacon fat and stir to coat. Fry the walnuts until they are slightly golden and then set aside on paper towels to drain. Pat them dry once they have cooled completely, and then chop into small pieces.

Remove and discard any large pieces of rubbery white fat that remain on the bacon and finely chop the meat.

In a 2-3 qt. saucepan, melt the butter over medium heat and then add the sugar, maple sugar, water, salt, and vanilla. Turn the heat to medium high and bring to a boil, stirring constantly with a heat-resistant spatula.

Insert a candy thermometer and continue cooking while stirring until the buttercrunch reaches 300 degrees and turns a light golden brown. Stir in the bacon pieces and walnuts and then pour into the prepared 9×13 pan. Quickly spread the buttercrunch into an even layer with a palette knife. Cool completely to room temperature and then break into pieces. Again, normally this can be stored at room temperature, but you may want to refrigerate it in an airtight tin if it is particularly humid in your kitchen.

Well, that’s all she wrote for today, folks. Remember to share your candy, because half the fun of confectionery is making other people smile.

Ciao for now,

Neen

Busy June, Happy News, and Brand New Recipes!

6 Jul

Boy, have we been busy. First we ran off to Chincoteague for a weekend of fun in what I think may be the most peaceful place in the world.

Two weeks later, we hopped on a plane for a whirlwind four days in New Orleans. The days were sweltering, but the beignets were sweet and the coffee was strong. There is nothing so joy-filled and rejuvenating as a few days with the family.

As if all of that wasn’t enough excitement, somewhere in between (June 18th for precision’s sake) Joe got the wild idea to ask me to marry him. I bet you can’t guess what my answer was…

Of course, I said yes.

And so after a June full of excitement, we crashed over the 4th of July weekend. I spent most of it languishing in the joy of having nothing to do but enjoy the sun, play with the dog, and read.

But what would a summer holiday weekend be without a little outdoor cooking? Some smoky, savory chicken breasts and a bright summer salad of avocado, yellow squash and tomatoes made for a perfect Saturday picnic.

Pecanwood Smoked Chicken Breasts

  • 3.5 lbs. of bone-in split chicken breasts
  • 6 cups water, divided
  • 6 tbsp. kosher salt
  • The zest of one lemon (large strips)
  • 1/2 tsp. allspice berries
  • 1 tbsp. telicherry peppercorns
  • 2 cloves garlic, smashed
  • 5 sprigs thyme
  • 6-7 chives
  • 4-5 parsley leaves, chopped
  • 1.5 lbs. wood chips (I used pecanwood)

Combine 2 cups of the water with the salt, lemon zest, herbs, and spices and bring to a boil. Set aside to cool for at least one hour. Add the brine to the remaining 4 cups of  cool water in a large plastic tub. Put the chicken breasts into the brine and refrigerate for 4 hours, turning once.

1 hour before grilling, add the wood chips to a bowl of water to soak. Drain, and then place them in an aluminum foil basket.

Preheat a gas grill to 300 degrees F. with all burners on high. After preheating, maintain a temperature of between 275-300 degrees. On my grill, this took one burner set on high. Place the basket of wood chips directly over the heat source. Otherwise, you won’t get any of that wonderful smelling smoke.

Remove your chicken breasts from the brine, pat them dry, and then put them on the grill away from the lit burner. Indirect heat is key for slow smoking. Also, keep your grill lid closed as much as possible. Cook the breasts, turning 180 degrees every 40 minutes until the internal temperature close to the bone is about 160 degrees. It will take about 2-3 hours. Rest 10 minutes and then slice.

Lemony Summer Salad

I really loved this salad. Not just because it gave me a chance to use some of the (excessive) bounty of squash that appeared in my garden while I was in New Orleans, but because of the balance. It’s very zen. You get this bright, tart flavor from the lemon juice and tomato, a little bit of creaminess from the avocado, and a sweet crunchy bite from the summer squash. It played very well with the smoky, salty flavor of the chicken. Best part: five minute prep time.

  • 1 ripe avocado, chopped and treated with lemon juice or citric acid to prevent browning
  • 1 summer squash, matchstick cut
  • A handful of grape tomatoes, sliced
  • Juice of one lemon
  • 1 tbsp. olive oil
  • 5 or 6 lemon-basil leaves
  • Salt and pepper to taste

Combine the lemon juice and olive oil and a bowl and whisk together thoroughly. Toss with the avocado, tomatoes, squash, and lemon basil. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Garnish with a bit of lemon zest.

Happy July to all! Hope you’re enjoying the summer as much as I am. County fair season is coming up, so hopefully I’ll have some interesting recipes to share as I start experimenting with what to make for Arlington’s competition.

Ciao for now,

Neen